I'm a bit behind schedule with taking pictures of this outfit. It's been done since the fall. The brown wool is coat weight, and so the cuts are unfinished. The red wool behind is the same as in the skirt, and the stitching is actually 4-ply wool sock yarn left over from something else. It's worn over a smock and the effigy corset. In the closeup, you can see that it tends to gap, despite not actually taking any strain due to the underlayer. I'm thinking about adding a placket or possibly using lacing rings behind the hooks.
I also think I might add a brown wool guard to the bottom of the skirt. It's a very comfortable outfit, *provided* that it's cold out! Wool, wool, and more wool!
9 comments:
*love*
Oh, that is such a smart ensemble! I'm so glad to finally see it.
I think a placket would solve your problem pretty easily, and I LOVE the idea of a brown guard on the skirt.
Beth,
Another great outfit. I love the doublet. As far as the gapping goes, I find this happens when I put the hooks and eyes too close to the edge. I have to force myself to put them further inside than I would like. This ensures that the edges butt up against each other.
This is especially needed with wool which tends to have more stretch than cotton or linen or other woven fabrics. If you get it right, they butt up against each other and eventually settle down with no gap.
The other trick is to sew the shank of the hook down so it can't pull away from the bodice. Does that make sense? A bit of trial and error is involved, but it does look better than putting in a placket.
Cheers,
Jane
Oh, also on having another look, I would add hooks and eyes half way between those that are already there. That is, double the number of hooks and eyes, if the moving them further from the edge doesn't work.
Cheers,
Jane
I wish you could edit comments on blogger!!
Third time lucky -
Having looked at the detail shot of doublet, the hooks are definately too close to the edge, you don't want any part of it sticking over the edge of the doublet.
Cheers,
Jane
Mmmmm yummy! I love the combo. Wool guard on the skirt would be very nice, but this is just lovely the way it is. You and Julie are both so talented!!! Yeah, I'm always moving hooks too...
Hi ladies,
Thanks so much for the kind input. Laren's right. I need to move the hooks and add more (oh, how I do hate sewing those things on!). They've actually been moved further back once already, and I didn't realize the gap had recreated itself until I saw the close-up. I'm also going to *try* to remember to bone the edges of stuff next time, no matter whether I think I need it or not. Note to self: I always need it.
Laren- that suggestion about sewing the shank down is brilliant. I'm always trying to find the balance between having the gap between the edges and having the silly thing pucker. Thank you!!
Beth,
I feel your pain when it comes to the hooks and eyes. I've resewn some bodices two or three times. But it's worth it to get the right look when you've spent so much time on the rest of it.
Cheers,
Jane
My, what a pretty outfit! The doublet is particularily nice with the cutwork and the red showing underneath.
And Hi! I'm Lia (liadethornegge.livejournal.com) I lurk and read your blog here from time to time. Lovely stuff.
Beth,
Love this new outfit. I guess you inherited the dislike of sewing hooks and eyes from me. Sorry. I really like Laren's solution to the problem. Hope to see a new photo of the outfit. I also think that a brown guard would look good, as well as fuctional.
MOM
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