The pattern for this is basically my Venetian bodice, minus the cut-out, minus the butt-point, minus some of the length, and plus a curved front. It provides zero compression in the midriff, which was kind of what I had in mind, although having a curvy belly wasn't so much what I had in mind. Oh well. Mostly, it provides under-bust compression. The curved front I got by first creating a mock-up that met in the middle all the way up and wasn't uncomfortably tight in the bosom (but didn't support beans), then cutting out the under-bust curve repeatedly until it actually provided some support. The curve is more pronounced than anything in the Alcega book for certain sure. I wasn't going for historical accuracy here, just a combination of comfort, ease of putting on, and the desired shape. I'm thinking this will work for the Flemish working woman, a German dress, and perhaps some of the earlier period stuff I'm thinking about. I don't know if any of these folks wore such a thing, but I'm just not going out the door without some sort of undergarment.
The materials: The side that's showing now is some sort of cheap cotton twill. The other side is cream-colored duck. It's reversible, depending on mood I suppose. That was an accident...I didn't have enough of either fabric. It's corded with two strands of hemp per approximately 1/4 inch channel. I ended the cording about 2 inches below each armscythe for comfort. Most of the cording angles to the front. There are a few vertical channels in the back, and there's a channel following the curve in the front so the eyelets don't rip out. That channel got added after the slanty bits were corded and sewn in place. Oh, and I only got about an inch of shrinkage for the whole circumferrence when I corded it.
6 comments:
Such exquistely detailed instructions. Thank you! And allow me to say "yoink." I know what I'll be working on this week. hehe.
Yeah, kind of long post, but I figured you might want details. I could post a picture of the pattern, but if you're going to follow this general idea, then your own bodice will work a lot better anyway. I think it's going to be "interesting" trying to fit a kirtle over this. We shall see.
Fantastic work!
LOL. I am still one corset behind and I really am interested in this type for the more natural, working type of movement/look.
After my ven gown, I definately will have to consider a corded corset (hopefully my current feeling on sewing corsets changes). I am planning on reworking my flemish bodice anyways.
Hehe, I just noticed you took that pic standing outside in your skivvies. You strumpet! ;-)
Yes, "interesting" sounds about right. hmmm.... I volunteer you to go first. Chuckle.
I'm having second thoughts about this bodice, though. It's definitely not a shape possible without curved seams. And while I think some period stuff had curved seams, I question whether less wealthy folks would have the skill/time/extra material to make that happen. I'm wondering if all those roly-poly pictures are just a result of everybody flopping about without too much support. I'm going to make an un-gathered chemise and see what it looks like. The piles of gathered fabric, after all, are adding to the buxom-ness. And perhaps without that, it won't seem so modern.
And yes. Definitely standing outside in me skivvies, matey! Ahoy, we see knees!!!
(added furniture = subtracted blank wall space = standing on a chair on the deck = neighbors think i'm nuts probably = nothing new)
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